Harlan Vertical Tasting with Pierre Rovani, Bill and Rebecca Sanders,
Jack Davies, Ric and Jean Edelman, Cindy and Scott Greenberg

Thursday, August 26, 2004

Assortment of hors d'oeuvres
Pork Torchon, Napoleon of Foie Gras with Plums,
Salmon Roe Potato Latke, and Seared Tuna on an Onion Cracker

















First Course
Pan-seared Wild Rockfish and Heirloom Tomato/Scallop dish




























Second Course
Wild Mushroom Risotto and Crispy Potato Cake









Third Course
Duo of Squab
Leg Confit Served with an Offal Sauce
Roasted Breast on a Blackberry Gastrique









Fourth Course
Lamb Two Ways
Confits of Lamb in Phyllo with an Artichoke and Garlic Purée
Lamb Loin with, a Purée of Bava Bean and Tomato Relish






















Fifth Course
Black Angus Rib-Eye with Mushrooms, Malabar Spinach Flowers, and "Butter" Mashed Potatoes




















Dessert Course
Mixed Berry Gratin with Coconut Pound Cake










This tasting was a treat to attend. Pierre was a gracious host and delightful dinner commentator. A special
"shout out" (as the young kids say these days) to Rebecca and Bill Sanders, for including Cindy and me in
their wine circle of friendship. Also, thanks to Vidalia for the thought and preparation they put into the food and
wine pairings. And to Ric and Jean Edelman for co-hosting the evening and for their continued support of
Charity Works. It's fun to drink well while doing good!


1990 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne France. A nice champagne made from
Chardonnay. Had a slightly fruity nose. Notes of marzipan on the palate and hazelnuts on the
medium, crisp finish. Overall, I thought it was a bit on the tired side, but pleasant, none the less.
6 Bunches



1990 Dom Pérignon Champagne France. Made from Pinot Noir, had more
character than the Taittinger. Interesting nose of minerals. Flavors of green apples and apricot
were well balanced. I thoroughly enjoyed the tight bubbles and crisp, clean finish.
8 Bunches
1991 Harlan California. WOW! A fabulous nose of violets and cassis. The palate displayed
wonderful interplay between ultra-ripe blackberries, dark currents and hints of cedar was
spectacular. The big finish went on for at least 45 seconds!
9 Bunches
1995 Verget Bâtard-Montrachet France. Wonderful nose of sweet minerals with a
hint of vanilla. Interesting combination in the mouth of ripe apricots, soft peaches and a slightly
lemony finish. This is one of the most interesting white wines I have had the privilege to taste.
The balance was near perfection and the finish was long and elegant. A real treat!
9 Bunches



1995 Ramonet Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet France. I really enjoyed this
wine as well. I loved the combination of creamy oak and forest undergrowth on the nose. The
flavors of vanilla and peaches played out nicely on the palate. The finish was long and clean.
8 Bunches



1999 Kistler Chardonnay Durell Vineyard California. Definitely not a Burgundy!
Great nose of creamy apples and nectarines. On the palate, notes of apples and ripe nectarines
dance gracefully across the tongue. The buttery finish was absolutely elegant, well balanced and
lasted at least 40 seconds.
8 Bunches
1992 Harlan California. Not as big or rich as the 1991 vintage. The cedary nose was no
where near as expressive. I thought this wine really had a hard time opening. There were hints
of soft fruit (cassis) and weak tannins. Not sure if it couldn't or wouldn't open.
5 Bunches
1993 Harlan California. Again, a very closed wine. Maybe a victim of proximity to the 1994.
The wine was tight and lean (slight austere). You could definitely tell that the fruit was there
and I'm sure that time in the bottle will do wonders for this vintage. I would love to try this
wine again in 10 years.
6 Bunches


1994 Harlan California. I swear, this is what my notes actually say: "Va Va Va VOOM!" I
think that about sums it up. This is a huge wine with a wonderful, mind blowing bouquet of ripe
blackberries, cedar and violets.  Black plums, dark fruits and rich, sweet cassis played out
beautifully. The fruit theme was complimented with hints of exotic spices on the one+ minute
finish, which left my toes curled. I noticed the guest on my left was not drinking all of his pour,
(due to a busy work schedule the next morning he felt compelled to moderate his intake) so I
offered to relieve him of his share... which was a great idea until my wife confiscated it claiming
she was no longer the designated driver. Easy come, easy go.
10 Bunches
1995 Harlan California. Fabulous. Again, on it's own, this wine would be a remarkable
treat. But following the 1994 is a little like Wings following the Beatles (a great band but hard to
live up to the benchmark!) This wine had a great nose of cedar and plums. The palate was well
balanced with ripe blackberries, Cassis and hints of anise. The soft tannins contributed to a long,
lush finish. Great structure that should continue to evolve well over the next decade.
9 Bunches



1995 Shafer California. Nose of burnt toast and Cassis. I have had this wine in the past
when it has shown better. I can't help but think that maybe, once again, it is suffering from
pairing envy. It seemed that the sweet dark berry fruit, while enjoyable (creamy?), was missing
on the mid-palate and had a medium finish with cocoa/chocolaty notes. I liked the wine, just
not at the end of the evening after drinking the '91, '94 and '95 Harlan.
7 Bunches
1995 Domaine des Baunard Quarts de Chaume France. A charming nose of
passion fruit and mango. Flavors of honey, dried apricots and ripe peaches are very pronounced
in this unctuous, multi-layered dessert wine. The long, ultra-rich and focused finish was a
perfect end to a very hedonistic evening. I could still taste this wine on the drive home.
9 Bunches